KATHMANDU, NEPAL

The traveler has to knock at every alien door to come to his own, and he has to wander through all the outer worlds to reach the innermost shrine at the end. (Rabindranath Tagore, Gitanjali)

My sejour in Kathmandu began on Dec 12. I arrived in Nepal during its winter season ... when temperatures can reach 25C during the day but drop to near freezing at night. This proved to be a challenge given that there was no central heating in the residence where I lived! I came to long for day light hours when I would finally warm up.

I was in COMPLETE shock driving from the airport. As the taxi proceeded towards the hotel, I saw dead (human) bodies piled up in a field along the roadside. The cab driver explained that this would be a common site in Kathmandu. The bodies were being prepared for cremation. At a nearby Hindu temple (Pashupatinath), tourists are welcome to witness the open air cremations. In Hindu religion, fire is considered a sacred gateway to the spiritual world. Cremation of the body has to occur within six hours of the person's death in the simplest ceremonial way.

I spent the subsequent three days with my dear friend Tom. Together we explored Swayambhu (monkey temple), Thamel Chowk, Durbar Squares (Kathmandu and Patan) and Potters' Square. We shopped-til-we-dropped and shared each other's company over delicious meals and bottles of wine. Tom, thank you for easing my transition to Kathmandu and to life without my travel partner Ann!

Eventually, I made my way to the Shechen Clinic and Hospice (http://www.madonnagasaki.org/en/popup_shechen_clinic.html) where I was warmly greeted by all. On the sunlit staff terrace, I enjoyed lunch with my colleagues and spent the rest of the day settling into my room. It was nice to unpack and begin to get a sense that I was ‘home’.

The Shechen Clinic and Hospice is located in a subdivision called Boudhanath. It is a magical place. The main focus of the neighbourhood is the stupa (a mound-like structure containing Buddhist relics, once thought to be places of Buddhist worship, typically the remains of a Buddha or saint). The Boudha stupa is a pedestrian only area surrounded by 37+ monasteries. Throughout the day (but especially at dawn and dusk) hundreds of people walk clockwise around the stupa and chant, pray etc. Given that it was winter season, many Tibetans had descended from the mountains to escape the cold. So the stupa was always a gathering of thousands of monks in burgundy robes and Tibetans / Nepalese in their traditional clothing. I attended the stupa every day as the energy of the place was palpable and calming.

The immediate neighbourhood around the hospice was quiet and like in San Miguel Mexico, I got to know the vendors of: baked goods, vegetables, cheese, etc and they became part of my daily life in Boudhanath.

The clinic and hospice were staffed by Nepalese nurses, physicians, Psychologist and allied health personnel. Volunteers included nurse volunteers from Canada and France, and a doctor and dentist from France. Patient care included Western Medicine, Tibetan Medicine, Complimentary Therapies (i.e. accupuncture). Spiritual care was also important part of our routines. We accompanied patients to the monastery once a week so that they could spin the prayer wheels and participate in chanting / praying. On the evening shift, we burned incense at the bedsides. Incense are a pivotal part of the Buddhist meditation practice.

The clinic has its own "chapel" and I spent a lot of time there as it was elegant and warm (candles galore). The grounds of the clinic were picturesque --- complete with sculptured plants etc. Security guards watched over the gated clinic / hospice area 24 / 7. I felt very secure.

VOLUNTEER LIFE:

The volunteers (Pauline, Helene, Veronique, Brigitte) were well connected. Typically, we had breakfast and dinner together every day (there was a private kitchen in the volunteer quarters). Usually, we ate soup or pasta for dinner and invented the recipes on the spot! We particularly enjoyed a wide variety of fresh vegetables and locally made oatmeal molasses bread (Saturday Café bakery owned by a woman from Ottawa!), yogurt curd and yak cheese.

Brigitte (RN) made the evening tea: fresh lemon, ginger, and honey. YUMMY. I came to appreciate that tea is a staple of the Nepali diet. It was served to all patients four times per day and the sweet tea is a very important part of this culture. It is made with cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, honey etc. At precisely 1000hr and 1600hr, the assistants appear in the clinic and exclaim "Nepali tea time. Nepali tea." All work is abandoned and you must indulge in this tradition. The patients are served tea as well ... even if by naso-gastric tube!

Volunteers frequented local restaurants on evenings when the power shutdown overlapped with dinner hour. Since meals cost as little as 50 cents, we ate out often! My favourite dishes were Nepali momo, chawmein and curry vegetables.

My room was huge (16 X 12 feet). It was basic (like university residence) but had nice hardwood floors and three windows so was very cheerful. There was an ensuite bathroom and it was clean and nicely tiled. Initially, I shared the room with a young nurse named Lao who had travelled from Japan to volunteer over a one year term! Volunteers work only day shifts (0700am until 1300hr, 0830am until 1630hr) or evenings (1300hr until 1900hr).

The volunteers live in the same wing as the patients but one floor above them. I felt very connected to them and it seemed that we each received / gave energy to the other. Most patients are outside during the day (to take advantage of the sun) and they really seemed to thrive in the warmth. Living among the patients meant that we are often engaged with them during our time off. That was nice. When you attended the bedside, you got a sense that you meant something to each other. The feelings were powerful and genuine.

The only drawback of living and working in the same environment is that it is difficult to find quiet and personal space. As on-site volunteers, we tended to leave the compound as soon as our shifts were complete. This 'escape' gave us a chance to refresh and come back renewed.

Power was shut off to the city 16 hours per day. The schedule of power outages was different each day. We have a generator during regular clinic hours 0830hr until 1630hr. Each volunteer's bedroom was equipped with candles and rechargeable lanterns. Water was heated by way of solar panels on the roof. Usually, we had no hot water until at least midafternoon (in my room, the water was never warmer than tepid). Volunteers took turns dashing to their rooms during the shifts in order to take advantage of the rare opportunities to shower with decently warm water. Otherwise, you washed with ice cold water (or boiled water!). Pauline (dentist) was the only one brave enough to shower in the morning. However, she stopped this ritual when Veronique (doctor) diagnosed the early stages of frost bite on Pauline's toes. The ice cold shower water pooling at her feet each day had started to freeze the tissue!

What a pioneer life I lead. There was seldom electricity when I was off duty and that meant dining and roaming around my room with a lantern or candles to guide my way. The patient care areas had no light after sunset and the nurses lit candles to give them comfort. Patients' bedtime is early (1600hr) as the temperature drops drastically and given the lack of central heating, patients need to dive under the covers early in order to stay warm! The rooms were so cold in the mornings, that the patients 'steamed' when we removed their covers to give them bed baths. The water for bed baths was boiled and placed in thermos containers.

Socially, things were always fun and adventurous. Despite having only one day off per week, we managed to do and see a lot while in Kathmandu. We attended a live music (Indian drums called Tabla) concert, a staff picnic, a downtown Reggae bar!, dinner parties galore and puja ceremonies at the Boudha stupa and Shechen monastery. We also enjoyed a visit by Alvaro, a Spanish clown (www.biciclown.com). Alvaro is a lawyer who gave up his law practice and is cycling around the world to bring joy to the people. He has been cycling for the past 5 years already and will be in Canada in 2016.

One event that stood out for me was attending a local movie theatre. Surprisingly, I understood the love story despite the language barrier! The atmosphere in the movie theatres was the most entertaining part of the experience: people answer their mobile phones and speak in loud excited voices; movie goers cheer / scream at the 'love scenes' ... which are so benign and involve no body contact!

Another highlight included taking a local bus ride with Brigitte. To travel by bus, you stand at the road side and as buses or vans drive by, you scream "Boudha" (my neighbourhood was Boudhanath). If the vehicle is going in that direction, you hop on --- sometimes as it is still in motion. The cost is 20 cents. So a white van pulled up. There were many bodies inside. Limbs were hanging out of doors and windows. People were jolly and gay. Brigitte literally DOVE into the bodies and was absorbed. I stood in shock. The bus driver's assistant (who acknowledges your shout) was yelling at me to get in. I said “How am I suppose to get in there, there is no room”. Well, he grabbed me and pushed and pushed to get my body inside. Someone inside took hold of one of my hands and pulled until it was placed on something to hold. Someone else grabbed the other hand and pulled and pulled in the opposite direction, until it was placed on something solid to hold. I was hanging out the van and away we went. Luckily, traffic was at a crawl due to rush hour. I never laughed so much in my life. Again, I kept thinking that I had been wise to buy travel insurance.

Although the social and tourist aspects of my time in Kathmandu were wonderful, my ministry in the hospice is the memory that I will most treasure. Nursing in the Shechen Hospice was one of the most profound experiences of my life. Despite their limited resources, the staff taught me about the ‘heart’ of hospice care. I was in awe everyday witnessing the love afforded patients by the beautiful, caring nurses.

The patients impacted me most though. Nepali people are the gentlest people. Patients we cared for were poor and vulnerable yet they were so grateful and forever giving despite their suffering. I was often moved to tears by the generosity the patients demonstrated: bowing to us “Sister”, greetings of Namaste, touching us forehead-to-forehead to show their affection, offering an orange as a thank you etc. I am forever grateful to have been afforded this opportunity to volunteer.

Whatever joy there is in this world
All comes from desiring others to be happy.
And whatever suffering there is in this world
All comes from desiring myself to be happy.
(14th Dalai Lama)

VIETNAM

Greetings Friends and Family. Our adventure continues in fine form --- starting with our excitement enroute, in Laos!

We travelled from Cambodia to Vietnam by way of two flights. One was from Siem Reap, Cambodia to Pakse, Laos. The other was from Vientiane, Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam.
Our 1st clue that this was not going to be a normal voyage . . . we boarded the plane in Laos on-time. As people were still trying to locate their seats and/or stowing their carry-ons, the plane pushed back and we started taxing down the runway. The fasten seat-belt spiel was going on as the plane lifted off. Better yet, we actually departed 20 minutes AHEAD of schedule!


We touched down in Pakse and had to get off the plane and enter customs. There was confusion about whether we would need a VISA for Laos as we were only going to be in transit through the airport. Yes. No. Yes. No. No one had a clue. Finally customs decided that we did not need a VISA; we passed through two check points and were cleared to go. We flew to Vientiane, Laos to wait 5 hours until our flight to Vietnam. We proceeded to the check-in counter 2 hours in advance. Customs asked us why we had no VISA. We told them that THEIR OWN DEPARTMENT had reassured us that it was unnecessary. Oh God! Much confusion ensued. They said Pakse personnel had made a mistake. Consultations with everyone on the planet transpired. Customs officials made frantic calls. No one had a clue.

We were escorted to the immigration office where we sat surrounded by more customs guards. The next thing you know, they gave us the song and dance that "their boss" said we were in the country illegally so would need to pay them $500-$1000 USD each. We told them we would NOT pay, and to call their boss to come to the office to talk to us. Next they told us that we would have to fly back to Pakse to get a VISA, then again fly back to Vientiane before proceeding on to Vietnam. Again, we said NO. Then they said the rules allowed connecting passengers to be in the airport for only 2 hours maximum without having to obtain a VISA. We asked to see that ruling "in writing". We told them that this was their fault, not ours and that we wanted to hear no more about the issue.

HANOI: Our first destination in Vietnam was The capital city. We re-named Hanoi --- ANNOY. What an incredibly chaotic city! There are 4 millions citizens and (likely) 4 million motorcycles competing for space. In fact, there are approximately 12 million motorcycles in Vietnam --- yet only 2-3 million drivers' licenses. The horns blare 24 hours per day. We think that motorists routinely blast their horns to warn others of their presence and that they are within 1mm of crashing into each other. Luckily our hotel room was located at the rear of the hotel so the horns became 'background' noise.

We were fortunate to have a private guide 'Ha' for our 2 day visit.This guide was unique! She began the tour by saying "I would like to begin by singing a song". She turned to us and sang a beautiful love story / song. Again, we were in the midst a service representative who takes customer service seriously! She took us to the Musuem and Mausoleum, Presidential Palace, National Museum of Vietnamese History and Temple of Literature. We also did a walking tour of the Old Quarter and enjoyed / endured a cyclo (or should we say psycho) ride (like a rickshaw) in rush hour traffic. Again, we are thankful for our extensive healthcare and life insurance policies. Later that day, we attended a Vietnamese 'water puppet' show --- where puppetiers stood behind screens (in waist-high water) and animated puppets to perform funny and dramatic scenarios! Vietnam is reknowned for its water puppet shows. It was a hoot.

Our hotel was located in the Old Quarter. This district comprises 36 streets --- each specializing in selling a given theme of products: paper street, shoe street, candy street, silk street, toy street, silver street, clothing street etc. The French influence is strong and the architecture and restaurants (food) reflect that history.

The weather was extremely 'wet' while we were in Hanoi. The flooding affected local people just as it has been affecting much of the Northern Vietnamese population. Ha explained that in her neighbourhood for instance, families were having difficulty obtaining fresh vegetables. Typically, each day local farmers sell their produce on neighbour sidewalks. In view that many of the roads are impassable though, the produce has been lacking. Families are suffering. Over 90 people died as a result of the floods.

SAPA: Sapa was great. We took the overnight train from Hanoi. At 0300am, the train came to a stop and remained there for 5 hours. Apparently, there had been a landslide related to the severe rain fall. We arrived in Sapa 9 hours late. Thank goodness we were in a first class sleeper car. We slept, slept and slept as much as possible waiting for movement. Needless to say, we spent the first day recovering at the hotel. We were treated to a traditional 6 dish Vietnamese meal of spring rolls, fish, vegetables and rice. The next day, our tour guide "Huong" took us on a visit to a village of one of 54 minority peoples in Vietnam. We saw the crafts, traditonal costumes and a variety show performance. We returned to Sapa for free time to explore the town and its markets. We dined on Italian food and Chilean wine. YUMMY.

The next day, we did a 10km trek through the rolling hills and deep green fields to visit more villages. The weather was terrible (constant downpour, mud galore, landslides, slippery terrain, muddy hillsides, and ankle-deep water! Needless to say, we COULD NOT walk the next day due to the severe leg muscle contractures!

Some villages were very basic and rudimentary (3 room thatch roofed huts housing up to 15 family members). Others were more affluent. According to Huong, minority villages prosper where community elders believe in education. In those villages, children often attend university and return to the village to assist with improving the quality of life and living standards. We took our last (of 5) overnight train back to Hanoi.

Our tour company arranged to take us to Halong Bay (another UNESCO World Heritage site) in a comfortable SUV. It was a pleasant 3.5 hour ride through the country side. When we arrived, we boarded our boat "Ginger Cruise". It was LUXURIOUS. We were treated like royalty and enjoyed the accommodations, gourmet food, company of friendly passengers and the magnificent scenery. The limestone outcrops and teal coloured water were breathtaking! We took the tender to a local floating village (more affluent than in Cambodia --- complete with a pool hall, disco-tech and "pre-fab" huts similar to large garden sheds) and then rafted back (on a bamboo boat) through a cave.

Ann and I felt very well after this much needed R&R! The Tai Chi lessons on the boat helped with both the leg cramps and our psyches. Ann is surfing the net to find Tai Chi classes in Ottawa! The sun finally began to shine so this too helped lift our spirits. All in all, the cruise was amazing; we now wish we had booked a longer excursion. We returned to Hanoi and awaited our flight to Hue.

HUE: Hue was the beginning of some tranquility. We enjoyed a hotel close to one of the core streets: Le Loi. We explored, took a day trip to the demilitarized zone (DMZ) and heard the Vietnamese perspective of the War (they refer to it as the "American" not the "Vietnam' War). The Vinh Moc tunnels were fascinating. It took 20 months to construct the three levels of tunnels. Each level served a specific function: living quarters, equipment and supply corridor, community 'function' (i.e. Health Center). We had the opportunity to spend 30 minutes in the crammed quarters where over 300 Vietnamese spent years of their lives. There was a maternity case room (the size of a closet), family gathering and sleeping rooms --- and only one toilet for all 300 to share.

Hoi An: Ah. Peace and quiet at last! We treated ourselves to a 4 star resort along the river. The resort comprises small cottages joined together by small patios. We had a unit directly across from the pool! Each evening from 5-6pm happy hour, the hotel staff serve samples of local Hoi An delicacies. Guests gather around small tables on the lawn and we enjoy Vietnamese pancakes, spring rolls, bean dishes, noodle soup and various teas and rice wine etc. YUMMY!

As well, we took a cooking class offered by one of the local cafe restaurants. It was a lovely day. We started with a tour of the local market. This was followed by a 25 minute boat trip to the cooking school. We toured its herb gardens and learned how to use the plants to make many of the items we had already sampled at our hotel. Then, lunch was served in a cozy open-aired restaurant along the riverside. It was a sunny day and the company of Australians, French and Canadians added to the bright mood.

Nha Trang: This resort town situated along the South China Sea has spectacular beaches. Unfortunately our timing was a bit off ! While here, we experienced the tail-end of a typhoon resulting in high winds, some rain, and huge, crashing waves. The force of the waves were so strong that they scouped up the sand resulting in brown water for several hundred metres off shore. In all our past travels we have never seen sea water this colour. Tragically, a few days after we left Nha Trang, three tourists drowned while swimming in the 'red' flagged waters

We spent our time walking the beach, sipping drinks at oceanside cafes, reading novels and relaxing. We also had the pleasure of meeting Charles, a Californian proprietor of Texas-style Steak House. We asked him what he missed from home, and told him of our cravings. Charles then offered to have his chef create any type of food we wanted. The following day, after stumbling upon a box of Kraft Dinner (KD) at a local corner store (the first we have seen since leaving Canada) we returned to the Restaurant; when Charles asked for our order, Debbie whipped out the box of KD and gave it to him. Not fazed, Charles said it would his pleasure to have the Chef make it for us. What a laugh! In the end, Debbie decided to keep the KD (comfort food) for her upcoming trip to Nepal.

Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon) - And we thought "Annoy" City was bad! This place is BEYOND INSANE! Population 11 million. 6 million motorcycles too! More people, more traffic, more honking! We have come to believe that for many Vietnamese, traffic lights, lane markers, road signage (ie., one-way street) etc. are just "art"! No one obeys their meaning. Crossing the street is a challenge. You basically have to just step out and go while cars, trucks, motorcycles, bikes, carts etc. whiz past you. It is a free-for-all with each man, women and vehicle out for themselves. We remain astounded at the number of people we see on motorbikes with babies and small children sitting on their laps. And of course, no helmets! Surprisingly, there are only 30 traffic related deaths per day in Vietnam. Specifically, there are 14.4 deaths / 10 000 vehicles (while in the USA, there are only 2 deaths / 10 000 vehicles).

We stayed at a very pleasant hotel, the Sao Nam Hotel (http://www.southernstarhotel.com/) owned by Hiep, the brother-in-law of one of Debbie's colleagues at the Ottawa Health Research Institute. Great location! Great staff! We really felt welcomed, particularly since Hiep personally greeted us up at the airport and because everyone has been so accommodating regarding our very fluid travel plans!

We visited the Reunification Hall (former Palace) and the War Remnants Museum (a very much slanted view of the War) reminding us that we are in a Communist country. We had a drink at the famous "Rex" Hotel, a focus of US military strategic planning personnel (it is from this hotel that the 5pm daily "military briefs" were issued). We also saw more temples, Notre Dame Cathedral, etc.




Mekong Delta - We took a 3 day bus/boat tour along the waterways where life has remained unchanged for decades. We visited floating markets, ancient towns and a village famous for making coconut candy. DELICIOUS but fairly labour intensive; each piece of candy was hand cut and wrapped.


Nov 30th, the plan was to go to Krabi, Thailand for more beach R&R before Ann headed back to Canada mid-Dec. Alas, the gods weren't aligned for this!


To get to Krabi, we were scheduled to fly from Ho Chi Minh City to Bangkok, and from there on to Krabi. A few days before the flight, Thai militants shut down the international airport, and all flights were cancelled. Having no choice (and no desire either to put ourselves in the midst of their political issues), we decided to spend our last few days back in Hong Kong, which is Ann's departure point for returning home.









Debbie will be heading to Kathmandu, to volunteer at the Shechen Clinic Hospice from Dec 15 until Jan 16.

CAMBODIA

Our trip to Cambodia was wonderful, albeit brief. We spent our time in Siem Reap and surrounding areas. We were fortunate to connect with a private tourguide (Lay --- pronounced 'lie') who chauffeured us around day and night. It was so nice to have all of our transportation arranged by a decent taxi company. Lay's driving skills were much to our delight. We experienced fewer white knuckle experiences in Cambodia than in any other Asian country.

Our first day was spent at the hotel. The hotel pool area was magnificent and relaxing. Cambodian people are so kind and soft spoken. Staff at the hotel were CONSTANTLY at our sides asking how they could assist. We often had 3-4 waiters hovering which we found imposing especially while trying to eat. Cambodian people take "customer service" to a new level! After day #1, we resorted to ordering "room service" at dinner time. This request seemed disconcerting to the staff. The first time the waiter came up with the food he said "I'll be back in 20 minutes to collect the dishes". We re-negotiated a 30 minute eating time.

Over the next 2 days, we visited Angkor Wat. Built in the 12th century, Angkor Wat is the largest religious complex in the world and includes 70 temples, tombs and ruins. We saw the Jungle Temple, Women's Temple, etc. Each day, Lay escorted us to local restaurants where we feasted on traditional Cambodian and Asian food.

We also had the opportunity to visit a floating village which is located on the largest lake in South East Asia. There we witnessed the most extreme level of poverty we have witnessed thus far in our journey. Like other villages we've seen, the floating village is comprised of bamboo huts. Yet since it is not land-based, it poses unique challenges for its residents. There are no places for the children to get together to play; there are no stores / shops (rather, local entrepreneurs load goods into boats and citizens shop the 'drive through' way); there are no community gathering locations (other than one large floating Christian church!). As we cruised by the huts, we saw many mothers with young children sitting in their doorways simply staring out onto the lake. It looks like a very isolated existence.

Throughout the country side, we noticed many signs indicating that that specific "area" had been cleared of landmines thus reminding us that areas not cleared continue to pose a significant risk of injury. We also saw numerous signs identifying countries (including Canada) as well as the names of individuals (and families) that have supported the digging of domestic wells throughout the countryside through the Clean Water Project.

Of note, was the cash flow in Siem Reap. Cash registers for instance are programmed to display the amount owing in both US dollars and Riels. Similarly, the change owing was displayed in both currencies i.e. $2 USD plus 5000 Riels (combined is the equivalent of $2.50 USD). Change was often distributed in USD and Riels as there are no coins used. This was the first time in our lives that we have withdrawn 2,000,000 from our chequing accounts . . . which when converted was a little over $100 USD.

On our final night, we attended a dinner / dance-cultural show. 400 other tourists were in the audience! We ate Cambodian and Western food and enjoyed watching the dances and hearing the music / songs. It was a great ending to our brief but pleasant visit.

LAOS

Dear Friends,

So, you've likely been sitting on the edge of your seats, wondering about the slow boat to Laos. We began the journey in a luxury minivan! Ann and I sat in the front seat as the van was full. The ride was fine and we stopped at a local restaurant (near Chiang Rai) and ate Pad Thai for $1 (CAN). YUMMY! We arrived in Chiang Khong at approximately 1700hr. This is where the adventure began. The room was clean but very basic. The bathroom was so bizarre (see pictures). The toilet was installed backwards and you had to use a pail to 'flush' the goods away. The shower was a hose attached to the wall above the sink. The water was heated by a heater, also fixed to the wall. The water basically shot out of the hose and sprayed your body and the entire bathroom at the same time. The bed comprised of a mattress and sheets /pillows and all seemed to be made of cement. Dinner was served at 1930hr and it was a lovely buffet of local, delicious food. We met many young travellers from the UK and Canada. What a wonderful evening.










I (Debbie) explored the village with Alan and Samantha (UK). We came upon a temple and decided to explore it. We saw a 'monk' in the yard and Alan said "If we aren't suppose to be here, he will say something". So we walked onto the grounds. Immediately, he came over. "Where are you from?" etc. We talked and talked and talked. After about 15 minutes, I asked him if I could take his picture. He declined. His robe exposed one shoulder and chest and he said that the tatoo was not something that he wanted photographed. I respected that request but I must have looked disappointed. He looked at me and said "By the way, I'm not a monk"! Rather he was a widower who is very passionate about meditating thus has spent 8 years in monasteries in India and Laos ... learning the practice. Later that evening, we spotted him in the tower of the pegoda. He was in the company of several monks. At that point, he enthusiastically invited us to take pictures!

The next day, we were challenged through the immigration process. Although we had paid the guesthouse to get our VISAs processed, we endured the multiple lineups (one to fill out paperwork, another to pay the fee which varied depending on your country of origin and on the basis that we were travelling on Sunday thus had to pay overtime to the customs officers, yet another to fill out more paperwork etc). It was absolutely chaotic and another example of how our Canadian, structured society has its advantages.

We were then hoarded onto a Tuk Tuk and taken to a depot where we would be processed onto the slow boat. The adventure intensified. The guide exclaimed "Now I will tell you the truth about this trip". You are suppose to get on boat #38. It is a bad boat: 180 people, one bathroom, crammed conditions. We will stop overnight in a village a) where there may not be enough 'good' guesthouses to accommodate you, b) where people will try to steal your luggage off the boat, c) where guest house staff will steal from your luggage when you go out for dinner, d) where there is limited electricity (generator) for only the first 2 hours after your arrival etc. We were offered the option to take a 11 hour bus ride to Luang Prabang at no additional cost. YAHOO! 12 people opted for this luxury. SURE.

The bus trip began at 1300hr. One hour later, we were approximately 2km from the bus station. We had stopped frequently to collect goods to transport for the locals. Then we stopped to get gas. We finally proceeded. Within 30 minutes, the bus broke down. We waited on hour for the next bus. Within 30 minutes, we had a flat tire. We stopped at a local village and the crew changed the tire. 18 hours (and 560 km) from departure, we arrived in Luang Prabang. Initially, the roads were impressive.

The highway was state of the art, smooth but winded through the mountains. THEN, we turned off onto dirt roads that were plagued with landslide spills, potholes and innumerable twists and turns. We were miserable but had to chuckle too. We kept telling ourselves "this is part of the adventure". We stopped for dinner at 2100hr and were pleasantly surprised. I went to a restaurant / house where I found packaged noodles. I asked the woman if she could make soup. Absolutely. She stir fried bok choy, peppers etc and made the most delicious spicy soup! Soon, others from the bus joined me in her cafe / living room and we enjoyed the comfort food. The cost was less than $1 CAN. Ann and I arrived at our hotel (Haysoke Hotel) at 0530am and luckily, were welcomed and escorted directly to our room. We were covered in dust (bus had no air conditioning so dirt road debris came through the window and landed on us!).

Laos is a picturesque country. Lush tropical forest-covered mountains, emerald green rice fields, exotic flowers comprise the landscape. 85% of Laos people live in rural areas, and are extremely poor. The average monthly salary for low-end earners is $57-71 US. To maintain even a basic standard of living, a monthly salary of $110 is needed. As we witnessed from the bus, the houses are bamboo huts on stilts, with thatched roofs. There are no windows, no electricity, no water, no furniture etc. The bus passed through many villages after sunset (1800hr) and it was like witnessing ghost towns. The country side was pitch black other than the fires that were burning to cook food. Eerie.

We spent the first few days of our trip in Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang one of the most preserved cities in Asia. It has been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage town because of its historic, cultural and architectural values. It has a strong French influence (language, signage, architecture etc) as it was once a French colony. It is also a very spiritual town. There are numerous pegodas / temples and over 100 monks reside here on a permanent basis. We attended the famous night market, town centre, temples, Kuang Si waterfalls (into which Debbie slipped and fell!), Tham Ting Cave (housing 5000 Buddha statues), Ban Xang Hai village (where Debbie tried Lao Lao rice whiskey!) and an Asian black bear rescue centre. We also had the opportunity to witness alms offerings (where monks gather their once daily food from the devout locals).

Next, we flew (no way we were chancing another bus ride in Laos given our previous adventure!) to Vientiane, the capital. Vientiane is a city situated along the banks of the Mekong River. Vientiane looks like a Government town; several countries including Australia, France and the USA have embassies here. Though Canada does not have an Embassy in Laos, it does have a relationship with Australia so if we run into any troubles we can touch base with their Embassy. Good-to-know! There is also an Austrailian Clinic here providing Western-type care, this is another good-to-know as we hear that the Laos health care system is not that great.

Before leaving Vientiane, we visited an exhibit at a Rehabilitation Center. The exhibit was sponsored by a non-government organization (NGO) called Cooperative Orthotic and Prothesis Enterprise (COPE). COPE works with the Laos government in providing rehabilitative services to people who have sustained injuries as a result of unexploded ordinances (bombs, mines) and other types of accidents. Laos was the most heavily bombed country during the Vietnam War. Approximately 260 million bombs were dropped during that period with an estimated 80 million still unexploded; it has been some 30 years since the end of the war and there are still between 500-600 people injured each year. This year, 4 kids were killed and another 5 injured when, while crabbing, they picked up a cluster bomb shell which exploded on them.

During our final evening in Laos, we dined with new friends (Frank and Jacqueline --- from Holland). It has been remarkable to meet so many interesting travellers. We enjoy reflecting on both the experiences we've shared and the insights we are gaining about other cultures (and our own by way of comparing / constrasting!). Over and over, we tell each other that we must never take our blessed lives for granted. We are privileged and travelling has made us more fully appreciate that fact.

Next we are flying to Siem Reap, Cambodia.

THAILAND

Karon Beach, Phuket was our first destination. We decided to treat ourselves to a beachside resort for 10 days. This was a welcome oasis after more than 9 weeks on the go. Although the neighbouring district (Patong Beach) is a shop-til-you-drop destination, we chose to drop exclusively. We have been positioned in beach chairs (either poolside or at the ocean) since arrival. We've each read one novel per day, pampered ourselves with Thai oil body massages, dined on delicious, healthy and cheap(!) Thai food and fresh exotic fruit, and taken in the magnificent sunsets! The weather is spectacular: sunny, 30s C, picture perfect. Ann says "IT IS DAMN HOT". The poor girl is melting! The lotus, phlox and orchid flowers are so incredibly beautiful. It is difficult to imagine the cool Fall upon our family and friends back home in Canada. Oh, did we mention that Karon Beach has the biggest butterflies we've ever seen?!

Debbie did a day trip to Phi Phi Island. She explored Maya bay, Khai Island and Monkey Beach (where she fed bananas to the monkeys). She snorkelled in Loh Samah Bay and Pi Leh Bay. The water in the Phuket area is teal green and so clear. It is breathtaking. She also visited the Viking Caves where there is harvesting of shallow birds' nests --- a Chinese delicacy.

Chiang Mai was our next stop. We flew in on Oct 10 and explored the neighbourhood near our hotel: Bossotel Inn. On Oct 11, we attended the first of two cooking classes "A Lot of Thai" (http://www.alotofthai.com/). Our hostess was Chef Yui! The day was incredible. We learned to make Pad Thai, green curry with chicken, hot and spicy soup, stir fried chicken with cashew nuts, spring rolls and a sticky rice / coconut milk dessert. We also toured a local market and tasted some of the delicious fresh ingredients that make Thai food so flavourful. Our fellow participants were fun and lively! Thanks to Joe and Hong (USA) and John and Caroline (UK). By the way, Canadian chef Michael Smith of the "Cooking at Home" series will be filming Yui in November as part of his "Chefs Abroad" series. We hope to be able to watch the show when it is eventually broadcasted.

Oct 12 (Ann's birthday) was celebrated in fine fashion. We began the day with a tour of a hillside village called Hmong. The tribal people who live there originated in Burma and southern China. Essentially, they are nomads who have travelled and survived by growing and selling opium and marijuana crop. Because this type of farming destroys the hillside soil over time, the farmers need to continually move to new locations. Approximately 45 years ago, they settled near Chiang Mai and the King / Queen of Thailand have encouraged a "program" where the tribe can maintain their viability, instead of growing/selling opium, by way of creating crafts (embroidery, linen, etc). The village is open to the public and craft goods are sold to support the community. Next, we visited the Doi Suthep Temple. Again, we witnessed profound Buddhist traditions / customs. The devote offered up lotus flowers, walked 3X around the pegoda and burned incense. Monks were very much present and it was surprising to see them sporting body piercings, and tatoos, and using cellular phones! Later that evening, we explored the famous "Sunday" craft market in Chiang Mai proper. We shopped, dined on spring rolls, stir fried noodles and BBQ corn on the cob. We also sampled organic wine made at the University of Chiang Mai. Debbie enjoyed the strawberry wine. Ann indulged in the lichy vino. The tuk tuk ride back from the market was scary, scary, scary. There are some nutty drivers in this world!

The next day, we visited an orchid and butterfly farm. The orchids are simply beautiful. Pictures will never do them justice! We then went to the Maesa Elephant camp where we watched the elephants be bathed and perform a talent show (soccer, painting, dart throwing, hoola hoop swirling etc) show. We had the opportunity to ride on an elephant and it was an amazing experience! The mahout told us that our elephant was 40 years old. Next, we visited the Queen Sirikrit botanical gardens. Again, the sights were breathtaking. The weather was glorious: sunny, 30s. We lunched on fried noodles and fried chicken for $1 (CAN) each!

After lunch we visited the Red Karen long-neck, Big-ears, and Lisu Hill tribes. This experience was an eye opener. These tribe people are considered to be "refugees"; they work the land, pay no taxes and as such are not entitled to any of the benefits that Thai nationals enjoy. Their houses are rudimentary (2 room huts made of bamboo, no windows, no furniture, no electricity, no water). The village people survive by farming the land and selling their crafts (woven scarves, jewellry, picture frames etc). There is a one room (Christian) Primary school for the children, and no Secondary school. Boys and girls begin to work at approximately 13 years of age. Boys tend the fields while girls create crafts. It was so difficult to reconcile that at age 5 years, girls MUST begin to wear the neck rings. The rings are made of copper and are extremely heavy and thick; our guide told us that the experience of the inital application (and of each addition of rings) is painful. The rings are taken off every 2 years to wash their necks and then more rings are added so that over time, the neck appears to elongate (it is actually that their shoulders droop from the constant pressure). This custom is important to the tribal people as they believe the long necks are a sign of beauty. Women must wear the cumbersome and heavy rings until death. It was difficult for us to reconcile that in our modern era, developing societies allow these customs and traditions to continue. Given that it limits mobility, is painful and by virtue of their refugee status and minimal education, tribal children have extremely limited opportunity for their future. The next day, we attended the Chiang Mai Thai Cooking School where we made yellow curry with chicken, chicken with cashew nuts, red curry fish steamed in banana leaves, spicy prawn salad, stir fried noodles with pork and bananas in coconut milk. There were approximately 25 people attending this course and we enjoyed speaking with folk from Belgium, Holland and Denmark. Again, the food is so incredibly delicious and spicy. Our last day trip was to Chiang Rai: hotsprings, ~650 year old temple, 2 more extremely poor tribal villages, slow boat cruise in the Golden Triangle. The Golden Triangle is the place where the Mekong River boasts banks in Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand. We debarked in Laos and did some 'shopping' in their craft market.

In the evenings, Ann and I have enjoyed a couple of visits to the night market. We dine in local Thai restaurants in center town and then roam around 'people watching' and shopping.
The Thai people will hold a special place in our memories. They are gentle ... always bowing and greeting us with hands clasped at their hearts. The women are STUNNING. The hotel staff have been gracious and generous. On her birthday, the hotel arranged for Ann to receive bouquets, bouquets, bouquets, bouquets and bouquets of orchids, a dessert platter and a token gift. The room was an array of colours and smelled magnificently! Next, they arranged for someone to come and repair her suitcase. The repairman drove to the hotel, fixed the suitcase back at his shop and returned it at a cost of $3. Unbelievable.

Tomorrow, we will be leaving for Laos via a bus, and slowboat / ferry along the Mekong River. This trip will be an adventure and will take 3 days to accomplish. We will update you on our Laos trip as soon as possible.

Be well.