CHINA

By way of our extraordinarily competent tourguide Xiaoping, EXODUS tours provided us with a trip of a lifetime in CHINA. The unique history / culture, the intriguing people, the sights, sounds, smells and tastes overwhelmed the senses and our spirits during this interactive (and very active!) tour. In total, we covered more than 8000 km of China in 20 days! We travelled by train, cruise ship, plane, rickshaw, gondola, bamboo raft, bicycle, car and foot. Having climbed over 5000 steps, we can attest the strenuous 'athletic' expectations of Xiaoping --- leg cramps woke us up almost every other night!

Our journey began in Beijing where we explored Tiennamen Square, The Forbidden City, The Temple of Heaven and The Summer Palace. We were privileged to be in Beijing during the Para Olympics and were impressed with the caliber of the Olympic venues and organizers' efforts to meet the needs of the special athletes. It was humbling to catch a small glimpse of the lives of our neighbours in the suburb where our hotel was located. Most families have one room homes --- with no washroom facilities. Rather, they must utilize public toilets scattered throughout the community. Body washing seemed to occur by way of buckets / water on the sidewalks. While in Beijin, we spent one day exploring and climbing The Great Wall at Simatai! What a spectacular sight.

Next, we took an overnight train to Xi'an. Xi'an is one of China's former capitals and one of the few cities in China to have retained its city walls. Ann and I walked on top of the wall for an hour while our fellow tour participants chose to cycle the entire 14 km structure. While in Xi'an we visited the Large Wild Goose pagoda and the staggering display of Terracotta Warriors at the famous mausoleum of Emperor Qin.

Subsequently, we boarded another overnight train and proceeded to Chengdu --- the capital of Sichuan Province. There we visited the Giant Panda Breeding and Research Base. Did you know that there are only 1000-1500 panda bears remaining in existence? We traveled to Leshan to see the Grand Buddha which stands 71 meters high. We also made our way to Emei where we climbed Mt Emei Shan Peak (one of the 5 most sacred Buddhist mountains). Again, the scenery was beyond description. Buddhist tradition abounds on Mt Emei and we had the fortune to witness monks in 'ritual' walks around the main, prominent Buddha.

It was on to the city of Chongquing (population 30 million!) to board a ship for a 3 day cruise along the Yangtze River. During the cruise, we witnessed stunning, towering cliffs and gorges. We visited the famous three gorges (Qutang, Wu and Xiling). Flooding of the gorges has begun with ~70 meters of water. We learned about the plight of displaced farmers who were relocated by the government in view that their land was lost. We were told by our local guide that young people welcomed the opportunity to relocate and obtain affordable housing (they were offered accommodations at cost) whereas the many elders found the move traumatic and devastating. We had the privilege of attending an information session at the damn and learned about this important project --- undertaken to mitigate the impact of flooding.

After the cruise, we took our third overnight train to Guilin / Yangshuo where we were promised time to relax. Who are we kidding, there was no relaxing!!! Xiaoping organized a bicycle tour to Moon Hill. We cycled for hours in 30-35C heat and then climbed over 800 steps up Moon Hill. We were treated to an amazing, authentic lunch at a local farmer's home. We were also pampered to a bamboo raft cruise down the Li River! We explored various craft markets and vegetable and meat markets too! Like all the days of this EXODUS we were treated to enormous amounts of healthy, tasty cuisine. Xiaoping was generous in his constant attention to detail. After feasting on what seemed to be limitless food and beer, we gladly paid our $4-6 bill! Unbelievable.

We flew from Guilin to Shanghai (a very modern city commonly referred to as the "Paris" of China --- population 12 million) where we enjoyed the fast paced, lit-up (with signage, video screens on buildings, skyscrapers) city!

Next, we traveled to Suzhou where we visited famous gardens and a silk factory. We also had the opportunity to see Tongli, a medieval village criss-crossed by canals and tiny bridges. The houses are rudimentary (over 700 years old) and for the most part, the town has kept its authentic personality! Again, we feasted on a wonderful lunch at one of the local tea houses!

Throughout our trip, we had the pleasure of attending several venues showcasing China's talents including the Beijing Opera, a spectacular Water Show with over 600 artists (this show coreographed by the same man who coreographed the opening ceremonies at the Beijing Olympics), and another equally amazing Acrobatic show.

China was fascinating to explore. Much to our delight, the country was extremely pristine and it seems that many people are employed to keep it looking nice. We saw numerous street sweepers who used homemade brooms to clean the streets and guard rail washers who polished the roadside crome by hand! The people of China were extremely friendly. They always offered salutations as we walked by. H-E-L-L-O! Frequently, they requested photo ops with us --- making us feel like movie stars!

Regrettably, as in many other countries, there appears to be a trend toward widening disconnect / gaps between the rich and poor. Within cities, millions of people still live in Hutongs (1 room, no water) while their neighbours enjoy the luxuries of worldclass skyscraper dwellings. In Beijing (population 12 million) alone, 4 million own 'power' cars: Mercedes, BMW, Audi etc.

China is a booming country. Construction sites abound. We were told than in many instances, it is a condition of setting up business in China, that companies create accommodations for the people within the community. We learned that schooling is compulsory and government sponsored until Grade 6 while highschool and university are the responsibilty of families. There are over 1000 universities in Beijing alone to accommodate the growing number of students!

We also learned that the one child family policy continues although farming families are permitted more than one child to assist with the physical demands of life on a farm. Our guide explained that most Chinese people support the policy as it is logical given the extreme overcrowding. Many young Chinese couples are opting to have no children due to the (already) high cost of living.

As always, we are grateful to have had the chance to explore another part (albeit small scale) of this great plantet! Our EXODUS friends will forever hold very special places in our hearts. Thank you to Xiaoping, Shelby (New York), Mette (Denmark), Bill and Libby (UK), Barbara and Jim (UK), Heather and Bill (UK), Les and Jill (UK), Joan and Peter (UK)!

AUSTRALIA

G'DAY MATES,

MELBOURNE has been an incredible place to visit. We hopped on the free tourist shuttle bus and explored the city --- stopping at the National Art Gallery (Art Deco Exhibit), Aquarium, war memorial / shrine, various Botanic Gardens, China Town (an Asian food festival was being celebrated), Queen Victoria Market, and Federation Square. We took a day trip to the Great Ocean Road and saw spectacular sights including the 12 Apostles, Koala Cove (where we hand-fed exotic birds like King Parrots), gorges and lochs, beaches, etc.

Next, we went on a day trip to see the "Penguin Parade" at Summerlands Beach, Phillip Island. This was an incredible site! Each night, hundreds of Ferry Penguins (~30 cm in height), return from their day at sea and waddle across the beach to reach their burrows for the night. When they 1st arrive at the shore, they band together in small group (~10-20) then start the treck across the sand. One penguin in the group may then get scared, turn and waddle back to the sea. This triggers the rest of the group to scurry back as well. The back and forth effort may happen a few times until they feel brave enough to go the distance which may be up to 2 k from the shore. It is an amazing sight to see them waddle past you. Unfortunately, or fortunately for the penguins!, it is prohibited to take their pictures so the best we can do is have you link to this site (http://www.penguins.org.au/) . The winter weather continues to be mild by our standards 8-10C.

We are enjoying some culinary treats in Australia: red wines galore, Greek food (did you know that Melbourne has the highest concentration of Greeks outside of Athens?), roasted pumpkin, fresh seafood and croccodile. We vow to try some Kangaroo etc. before we leave the country --- although this will be hard to do given that the cuties have graced us with their affection over the past days!

ALICE SPRINGS. This town is incredibly remote and set within an extremely dry dessert area. The Aboriginal presence is noteworthy and we enjoyed viewing their magnificent art work. Ann keeps searching for the perfect pictures for her home! While in Alice Springs, we signed up for a day trip to Ulura and Ayers Rock. One highlight was the sunset BBQ at Ayers Rock. The scenary was beyond compare. The peacefulness of the setting was therapeutic. The day was long (18 hours) but PERFECT!

DARWIN. What a shock to arrive to 33C and tons of humidity. Darwin is considered the youngest city in Australia. The average age of citizens is 31 years. The North Territory has a population of 215 000. Darwins houses 126 000 of them! We did a walking tour of the city and enjoyed the oceanside boardwalk 'education' we received at each featured attraction (war memorials, park dedicated to prominent women of the community, WWII oil storage tunnels, WWII survivors lookout etc). We stumbled upon a deckchair cinema too! That evening we enjoyed a movie about George Hogg --- British Journalist who assisted Chinese (male) children during the war. The cinema was located alongside the ocean / beach. It boasted deck chairs set up like a movie theatre. We were treated to a homecooked (Indian) meal, wine, a wonderful sunset and a fantastic movie under a starry sky. How civilized. It was one of the most memorable nights and we still talk about the feeling of sitting under the stars, feeling the breeze off the ocean and enjoying the company of many others who came to learn about the plight of the Chinese at that time. The next day, Debbie ventured to Kakadu National Park and enjoyed the day-long adventure. We continue to marvel at the significant Aboriginal heritage of this country.

CAIRNS. Cairns was great. The weather was more tolerable 21-25C. NO humidity. The youth hostel has 2 pools and is surrounded by palm trees etc. We enjoyed the peaceful hostel guests and setting. After arriving in town, we went exploring and grocery shopping. Surprisingly, we came upon a drive-through liquor store. We both laughed! What a great idea. The cars pull in, the store clerk walks over to take the order, goes into the store to gather the goods and delivers them to the driver. The driver simply pays and drives away! Ann took a cruise to the Great Barrier Reef and saw amazing underwater 'treasures' through the glass bottomed/sided (submergible) boat. Debbie took a different day trip and snorkelled. WOW. WOW. WOW. Ann also did a day trip to learn about how exotic fruits are cultivated, many of which she had never heard of let alone seen. All in all, a very tasty day!

SUNSHINE COAST: We flew from Cairns to Hamilton Island and took a ferry to Airlie Beach. What a great little town along the sunshine coast. Next, we took an overnight train to Hervey Bay; this was an experience in itself as we booked into sleeper cars that stacked 3 people, like sardines, basically on top of each other. We each shared different rooms with some very interesting Aussie characters!

BRISBANE: We arrived in Brisbane on time for the Riverfest. We enjoyed an evening of "Canada-Day-like" fireworks and fighter jets soaring over the crowds to celebrate the River! Like Melbourne, Brisbane is a world class city. It was BEAUTIFUL: clean, modern and full of life. We treated ourselves to a stay at a hotel (versus youth hostel) and throroughly enjoyed the TV and amenities of home (kitchen in the room, outdoor patio etc). We have been missing these comforts. While in Brisbane, we took part in a day trip along the GOLD COAST: aptly named. The beaches were spectacular and so were the multi, multi million dollar homes that line the coast for miles and miles on end! We can't remember seeing such obscene wealth in one place and Ann has lived in Miami so knows the luxuries that can come with money! One of the homes was a 30M shack owned by the real estate agent that sells homes in the area (that should give you a sense of the scale of the wealth); another 20M+ home located virtually next door boasted a titanium roof! All had massive yaughts parked outside --- that could be navigated to the local shopping center that had boat docks stations as well as car parks.

SYDNEY: Population 4.6 million. Again, the city is world class. What incredible scenery, resources, and possibilities for fun within an urban setting. On arrival, we toured Darling Harbour and saw live (music) shows from the Malaysian Festival. We explored Paddy's Market and marvelled at the Asian (shops, restaurants, markets) presence in Sydney. On Day # 2 (first day of Spring), we ventured to Blue Mountains and were treated to spectacular views and a lovely cruise along the river --- into Sydney Harbour. On Day # 3, we did a tour of the Opera House and walked ... and walked ... and walked through the streets admiring this lively city.

BONDI BEACH: On our last full day in Australia, we spent several hours doing the Royal National Park's Costal Walk, enjoying the sounds of the waves crashing against rocks, and just appreciating the beauty of the white sandy beaches, and of the few brave souls out trying to surf the waves. Temperature was alittle on the cold side so other than the surfers there was no one in the water and only a few people on the beach. One can only imagine just how busy these beaches would be in the summer.

As we prepare to leave for China, we have been reflecting on our experiences thus far. We are in awe of the wonder of this planet. We feel fortunate to have met so many interesting travel companions during our tours. People from all walks of life and from every part of this planet are taking advantage of the privilege to see the world from another perspective. We particularly admire the youth who are working hard to make ends meet to be able to travel. Ann and I are grateful for this gift: to have been granted (from CHEO and TOH!) time off work to travel, to have the support of family and friends, to embrace this wonder-FULL life we share. We think of you often and hope you are well. Take good care of yourselves. We will keep in touch!

Debbie and Ann

NEW ZEALAND - SOUTH ISLAND

Leaving Wellington, we spent 3 hours crossing very rough waters to Picton via the Interisland Ferry. Thank god for the "anti" drugs --- which Ann eagerly gulped. The ferry itself was quite impressive with its several desks, two full-feature movie theatres, games rooms, restaurants, lounges etc.

Highlights on route from Picton to Nelson: Havelock (green shelled mussel captial of the world) and village where the atom-splitter guy went to school. We've stayed in Kaikoura, Napier, Christchurch, Franz Joseph and Queenstown. In Christchurch we spent an evening of fun and laughs with a delightful "kiwi" couple (Brian and Kay), whom Brenda T. and I met on a previous trip to Prague, Budapest and Vienna.

Trip highlights: Fiordland National Park --- the place where Lord of the Rings was filmed: rainforests, Southern Alps, crystal clear rivers and streams (which Debbie drank from), wildlife i.e. Kea bird - who climbed into the bus cargo hold trying to break into a box of Chardonnay! We did a cruise in Milford Sound and out into the Tasman Sea. The wildlife amazed us: dolphins swimming up to the boat, penguins and seal on the shore etc. We also trekked up Franz Joseph glacier and saw spectacular views of both western and eastern coastal scenery. Incredibly, neither of us needed med-evac from the ice formation --- although it was touch and go for a while. NEVER will we have the courage to repeat this athletic challenge.

Queenstown (named so because it was considered "...fit for Queen Victoria") is in full tourist mode with skiers and snowboarders visiting en masse. The town reminds us of Banff! We've been walking through the Botanical Garden and War Memorial pathways / trails.

As 44 and 50 year old backpackers our travel experience is unfolding quite differently than the way it is unfolding for the "youth" we are encountering. In view of the coordination required of this trip (8 flights between / within NZ and Australia, numerous destinations etc.) Ann has organized us in the most sophisticated way: colour coded Excel spread sheets outlining daily destinations, hotel accommodations, flight / bus information, expenses etc. She has produced a lamentated card outlining the currency exchange rates for each of the countries we will be visiting. Among her packsack contents, she has multi-coloured highlighters, gel pens, paper clips, calendars, etc. Essentially, we are a portable travel agency, office and e-bank. Oh, did I mention the memory stick to hold all the information? Ann adds / subtracts from the Excel sheet in 'real time' to ensure that all is in order! And what of the postcard checklists to ensure that friends receive updates on a regular basis?

We forgot to mention in our previous blog entry some other "survival" items in our packsacks: mess kit (cutlery, plastic food storage containers, coffee mug, wine glass (for the princess!), and the handy/dandy Swiss army knife), mosquito netting for our sejours in China, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos), micro fibre towels, and hostel bed sheets. Surprisingly, we managed to keep our carrying weight down to 12kg each!

New Zealand has been AMAZING. August 12 sees us off to Australia (Melbourne). We look forward to updating you about the next phase of our adventures.